Luxury Hotels

Sybaritic Single becomes caviar-centric in Dubai

It was the first time the Sybaritic Single was served pickled cucumbers rather than raspberries with his breakfast Champagne. This marked the arrival of Caviar Kaspia in Dubai. Squeezed between Four Seasons and The Ritz-Carlton in the middle of the International Financial Centre district, it certainly took one luxurious hotspot.
With two tables taken on a weekday afternoon, the service was still quite disoriented. The only ones giving attention to the Sybaritic Single were a duo of flies that instantly got attracted by the pickles and just won’t go away for the next two hours. The ambiance inspired by the 1927-established original felt barely novel except for the washrooms, arguably the most elegant in all of DIFC.
Caviar business always remained a mystery to the Sybaritic Single. Petrossian, Caviar Kaspia, Gourmet House, Hadid and so many other brands – most of them source their produce from the same wholesale farms in Italy, France, China or even Abu Dhabi, thousands miles away from the actual Caspian Sea. Not the real thing.
Always on a Dior-44 diet, the Sybaritic Single took a break and ordered borsch along with the biggest crowd-pleaser on the menu: a half-potato topped with caviar. As a Russian who grew up between Red Square and Place de la Madeleine, he knew the devil was in the detail. The borsch arrived without any condiments, watery and just OK. He appreciated Dom Pérignon poured by the glass yet also observed Champagnes being pricier than elsewhere in the city. The massive twice-baked potato landed with a generous dollop of caviar that was salty, mushy and dull. The type Cathay Pacific serves in first class – passable at 38,000 ft. but less so at a caviar-specialty restaurant.
For the Sybaritic Single, enjoying quintessential Russian cuisine in the middle of Dubai is by no means pleasing – as long as one accepts it being bistro-quality and not looking at the bill. But could this “kaviar kafeteria” become the eatery that would destroy Russian dining in Dubai? After significant delays, still missing artworks on the walls and decent service on the floor, the Sybaritic Single hopes it just won’t choke on its own caviar a bit too quickly.