Luxury Hotels

MARRAKESH – 2

There are many who say never eat breakfast in the same venue as dinner, but if hotels are smart they can disguise a space so successfully that no-one, at last none of the customers, realises the repetition. Four Seasons Marrakech is one such Houdini of hostelry. (Girlahead has already commented on how it is near impossible to retrace steps to walk to rather than back from, the gym.)

Dinner was in Quattro, a most enjoyable Italian restaurant with a hint of Manhattan Lower East Side about it. Dark wood tables with pebble-shaped Chilewich mats, low set on-table lights, hanging light circles overhead.  A couple of chefs manned a kitchen, with pizza oven, behind a 1.5-metre-tall tiled counter.

Try a Pizzoli, suggested the maitre d’ with a flourish, explaining this specialty is a pizza sized sandwich, dough with filling. Agreeable at all times, GM Thomas Krooswijk broke his carb-free regime to share a Pugliese. Segments of lightest dough holding burrata, sun-dried tomatoes, and pesto. Girlahead could actually have relished a regime just of that, nothing else, but next came Grigliata di Pesce, platters of grilled small fish. To finish, there was no question. Tiramisu, naturally, and made from scratch, table-side.  See the video below….Breaking away from the Italian, glasses held a local wine, Merlot Rosé 2022 de Siroua,

But the point of this culinary conversation is that in the morning Quattro was unrecognisable. Admittedly we arrived not via a staircase down from the lobby lounge but, this morning, from the garden. Walk past immaculately tended parterres and Quattro’s terrace, its tables already set.

Table-lights have gone, and table mats are now beige rectangles. The most extraordinary change, however was that a complete additional room had miraculously appeared. For the buffet – see above. And, by the way, Four Seasons Marrakech absolutely continues the statement that Morocco does beautiful breccies.