Exotica is this week’s food theme. There are admittedly a few who dine daily, without deviation, off smoked salmon followed by lamb chops – as Lord Lucan did, before he disappeared forever after murdering his children’s nanny in mistake for his wife. But 99.9% of adults want at least a modicum of change from time to time. See above, an amuse in Sea Fu at Four Seasons Jumeirah Beach, Dubai. Girlahead never discovered what the two morsels were but the one on the right was remarkably prickly. Was it sea-urchin?
Foodies, by the way, should turn to Jeremiah Tower’s brilliant weekly autobiographical Out of the Oven blog, from Substack. The current episode is about Escoffier’s sardines and it’s hilarious as well as informative. Learn how as a 16-year old at boarding school in England Master Tower was given a copy of Escoffier’s Ma Cuisine, in French, by his drama teacher after an obviously stellar performance as Algernon Moncrieff in Oscar Wilde’s The Importance of Being Ernest. That book inspired the teenager so much it ignited arguably the most erudite and certainly cultured of culinary careers that is continuing today, in Mérida.
Sea Fu is designed by Adam Tihany, the designer who is undoubtedly, no argument, one of the most lasting designers of our day. Others come and go (how long will Martin Brudnizki be a top dog?). Sea Fu has another advantage when it comes to longevity. It reaches into the gorgeous gardens of Four Seasons Jumeirah Beach and, high summer excepted, you can dine on its terrace most of the year.
Four Seasons Jumeirah Beach’s an exotic hotel which is also essentially comfortable and Sea Fu’s dishes are suitably aligned. See, below, its sashimi-sushi presentation