Is perfection ever reached? In food, a product is demolished, eaten. In general, the natural force-of-gravity is ENTROPY, growing chaos, but we surely all admire the cleanliness, simplicity and great taste of Japanese cuisine (and we know that Japanese strive for KAIZEN,continuous improvement) • Globally, it is so SIMPLE to please top luxury globalists today. In Chicago, The Hoxton has free breakfast-to-go – hang a handled bag, provided, outside your door and you find it is filled with juice, easy-eat oatmeal, a croissant and an apple. Girlahead feels that they always want a choice of simplicity – see the avocado breakfast, above, at Café Biltmore in Mayfair Biltmore, London.
One of the most famous of that ilk, Café Caryle at THE CARLYLE, NEW YORK, re-opens February 2022. It also adds, NOW, Dowling’s at The Carlyle, named for one of the hotel’s former owners, urban planner Robert Whittle Dowling: designed by William Paley, part of Tony Chi’s coterie working as tonychistudio, and with chef Sylvain Delpique, formerly of the 21 Club, Dowling’s menus include tuna tartare, wedge salad with blue cheese, Hudson Valley foie gras. SIMPLE LUXURY.
Even top media want simplicity: in England, one scribbler RAVES ABOUT HOME-MADE FIG ICE CREAM at The Graduate, formerly Doubletree, in Cambridge. Another literally SCRAPED THE CHEESE BASE OFF THE CAST-IRON SKILLET HOLDING FROMAGE AU FOUR at The Londoner’s Whitcomb’s (this is the brasserie that cleverly has pairings in its soft-leather-cover cocktail menu, with dishes rather than other way round)
But some eating out has changed over the last 18 months. The New York Times notes people are dining earlier. They often choose to dine outside, regardless of the weather. Restaurants provide Bordeaux-burner heaters, wraps, semi-enclosed cabins. Tables are un-set – set your own (saves valuable labour), QR codes are commonplace, menus’ dishes are more streamlined dishes (less labour-intensive) and more plant-based (lower food costs). Restaurants add income by selling items from wine through to home-made cookies. There is more solo dining (bother, they do not drink as much) • Some hotels cleverly turn to outside specialists – at the new Pendry in New York, all food offerings are handled by the Stillman family’s Quality Branded restaurants. ISTANBUL’S MOST ICONIC HOTEL, Ciragan Palace Kempinski does it inhouse. It re-opens, on 11th October, its 46-seat Bellini fine-Italian – it originally operated 1991-1998 signatures of current chef Giovani Vaccaro are beef carpaccio, lobster risotto and grappa semifreddo