A pair of truffle-coated arancini planted, as it were, in a flower box (see above) was Girlahead’s introduction to the culinary imagination of young Roman Matteo D’Elia. He’s just started as chef of Il Pompero, a corner restaurant that is surely going to be the regular pop-in place not only for Italian diplomats but all Belgravia’s Italian-loving foodies. Continue on, to a beef tartare framed in a flower-bedecked circle of pastry, and a side salad, and perhaps Prosecco to complete the Verdi feel, though fortunately this is a music-free zone so conversation flows. Il Pompero also happens to be the all-day restaurant for that arts-boutique The Hari, the hotel that is currently displaying futuristic screen prints by its two artists-in-residence.
Noise, however, IS in. Hottest buzzword on the St Bart’s and St-Tropez scene is eatertainment, sharing dishes, sharing designer rosé, all blasted by noise. Take the third floor rooftop Strawberry Moon poolside restaurant at Pharrell Williams’ 266-room Goodtime Hotel, Miami Beach. Pick at babaganoush and perhaps a 16oz Kansas City bone-in-strip, drink a bottle of Whispering Angel. You can’t hear a word because of the two DJs. Apparently Strawberry Moon has had so many noise violations the Miami Beach Planning Board meets 28th September to consider revoking its licence, but until then, the crowds come, and come and come again.
Anthony Bourdain’s name is, and will be, forever synonymous with the popularism of food. Now Academy Award-winning filmmaker Morgan Neville has a new Bourdain documentary Roadrunner, which reviewers say reveals something almost innocent and sweet. This was a man totally unaware of what the next two decades would bring him and it was striking to watch Bourdain crack the smile of a mischievous teen as he learns he’ll be a New York Times bestselling author for his swashbuckling memoir. There’s a moment where he chuckles with delight—and slight disbelief—that a hotel put a bottle of wine and fruit basket in his room to welcome his arrival. See the trailer, below.