Fashion constantly evolves – and so should luxury hotels to retain interest and business. LANDMARK MANDARIN ORIENTAL is a signature case in point. It has always, since its 2005 opening, been nearly unique (Girlahead can only think of Dubai’s KEMPINSKI MALL OF THE EMIRATES when it comes to a hotel so fully integrated into a mall).
Since her last visit, Landmark Mandarin Oriental’s sensational Michelin-starred Amber by Richard Ekkebus has become dairy-free. Believe it or not the ‘burrata’ shown above is made here – in the hotel kitchen that more resembles a science lab with copper lampshades – from soya milk. See https://youtu.be/Q79A3abdJvU .The tomatoes are real. The ‘extra virgin olive oil’ is lemon verbena. It is totally delicious. Ekkebus is not, by the way, plant-exclusive. Dishes on his six-course tasting menu can subsequently include scallop (with lacta fermented nut butter), pork cheek, and Haki Farm Wagyu A5.
The menu itself has evolved. It has become a one-stop shop. As well as featuring six- and -eight-course Experiences, without or without wine pairings, it suggests lots of Dom Pérignon – Ekkebus is an ambassador – and Provençal Pink Enigma, all 2021, from Ch Galoupet. The menu also offers caviars, including Petrosssian Acipenser Schrenki-Dauricus, up to 250gm for HK$7,398 , and two cookbooks, Richard Ekkebus Signature Dishes, HK$498, and Roger & I (Roger Souverains and Richard Ekkebus), HK$ 988.
There is, of course, less-gourmet dining, at the adjacent cosy Somm bar. And there is other shopping. A Dior private shopping salon leads off the hotel lobby. From its second floor, go directly into a collection of every A list brand. Girlahead needed a basic pharmacy and a front desk enthusiast took her there, helped with the transaction and carried the goods home (he loves the hotel, partly because of management transparency and the GM’s personal regard for his career).
This shows. The entire team is dream-team. (Actually suite 2023 is pretty dreamy too, from the circular tub to the welcome glass of wine in a 100ml screwtop test tube, Dme d’Ouréa Gigondas Adrien Roustan 2018, and the absolutely-personal welcome fruit in a temperature-controlled wall cabinet – see https://youtu.be/3l-j21HOdBM),